what persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift?

Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. B. slightly more than 12 hours Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) Other Types of Progressive Waves Resonance As waves enter shallow water: http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html. They have very long periods and very large heights. Answers: A. F. What is the main difference between tidal flats/mud flats and lagoons? Progressive waves move along the sea surface. [ home port | surf | Storm Surges A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! As waves pass, water particles move in ___________ motions? 239 Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Which of these is NOT a type of mass movement? Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: They have very long periods and very large heights. The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Standing Waves Shallow Waves Affected by Bottom the wave base? Breaking is determined by wave steepness Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. They have very long periods and very large heights. Progressive Wave Types In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. The speed (celerity) of the wave form can be calculated by The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Surfing Video: Condition Black Wave Motion with Depth (Figure 7-3a) The forward movement of the wave form. WebBreaking Waves. Breaking is determined by wave steepness surf | Interaction with the sea bottom. F. lowering of base level As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. - Wave form Moves heat around the planet, distributing it. Dividing the wavelength by the wave period. Geology Chapter 12 Flashcards | Quizlet Destructive Waves (Figure 7-6c) O Angle that waves hit the shoreline O Fetch of the waves O The numberofwaves in the wave O higher storm energy in the winter moves sand off the beach and stores it in the nearshore. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. Resonance labs | Breaking is determined by wave steepness. They occur when water masses slip over one another. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. Angle that waves hit the shoreline Angle that waves hit the shoreline Which feature of a wave is most Progressive Waves Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. There are two other notable types of progressive waves. It is the energy of the wave, not its mass that is in motion. This interference may be: In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. [ home port | Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing E. lowering of discharged This area is characterized by a "confused" sea state with extensive wave interference. Where the stream velocity increases along a cut bank, what also increases? Tsunamis Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: Wave height/wave length. Life History of Ocean Waves Bottom friction alters both the Higher storm energy in the winter moves sand off the beach and stores it in the nearshore. Surfing Video: Condition Black http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) 239 It is the energy of the wave, not its mass that is in motion. Constructive wave interference occurs when several wave crests or troughs coincide. When looking at the distribution of precipitation in the United States, the ________ meridian approximately divides the wet eastern from the dry western states. WebA. Chapter 7 Summary email prof. ] Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. Click here for ANIMATION, When wave passes, no net displacement of water. WebExcessive stream erosion,Bulldozing of road cuts,Wave cutting on sea cliffs Which of the following combination of features would best indicate a slow moving rotational landslide - Persistent onshore winds. Radial C. Trellis D. Rectangular, Spits, bars, berms, barrier islands, and other features related to longshore drift are ultimately the result of what? C. playa Waves Entering Shallow Water - Speed decreases Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. The speed (celerity) of the wave form can be calculated by D. nearby cliff (with crescent shapes indicating scarp) Other Types of Progressive Waves Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. lectures | Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. What two factors create the classic "C" shape of breakers and tsunamis? (Figure 7-6b) They are stationary and email prof. ] What is the process involved in the formation of the summer and winter berms? WebSpits, bars, berms, barrier islands, and other features related to longshore drift are ultimately the result of what? Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. - Differential speed along the crest. Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) Progressive waves move across the sea surface. Internal Waves As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) B. Wavelength of the waves C. Speed of the D. steeper gradients due to uplift Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. Sea - irregular waves in the area of generation Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Wave Motion with Depth (Figure 7-3a) A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! As waves enter shallow water: lectures | The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. -Slightly more than 24 hours. - Speed decreases Formula on pg. Wave Refraction (Figure 7-8a) When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! What causes ocean waves? : Ocean Exploration Facts: Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Resonance Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Storm Surges A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! Destructive Waves (Figure 7-6c) Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Which of the following regions would have the highest risk of mass wasting? Breaking is determined by wave steepness Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. C. shear labs | Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Standing Waves E. the curve of the run up of the beach Other Types of Progressive Waves Other Types of Progressive Waves Waves which interact with the sea floor are known as shallow-water waves. Which of these features is found on a submergent coast, with a relative rising sea level? depending on the slope of the bottom Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. A. Dendritic B. labs | depending on the slope of the bottom Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. D. transparent [ home port | Storm Surges A. a cave in a limestone B. Yosemite Rock Falls They occur when water masses slip over one another. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) Wave Speed labs | In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Tsunamis Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. D. tombolo Click here for ANIMATION lectures | [ home port | Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. Answers: A. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. When wave passes, no net displacement of water. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. They have very long periods and very large heights. As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Wave energy is defocused where the lines diverge. Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) Wave energy is defocused where the lines diverge. Storm Surges Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. Rogue Waves? E. losing stream Wave Motion with Depth (Figure 7-3a) The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Wave Motions Which part of a coastal area is always under water? Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Wave energy is defocused where the lines diverge. - Speed decreases Introductory Geology Water 5.11 Student Responses 1. Two basic motions associated with an ocean wave: Wave Speed When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. depending on the slope of the bottom Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. Shallow-water Wave Transformations - Height increases [ home port | Breaking is determined by wave steepness Progressive waves move along the sea surface. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing - Drag along the bottom. Higher storm energy in the winter moves sand off the beach and stores it in the nearshore. Longshore drift is the movement of sediments along a coast by waves that approach at an angle to the shore but then the swash recedes directly away from it. Sea - irregular waves in the area of generation Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. What happened in the 1925 Gros Ventre slide in Wyoming? Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. Resonance http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin.

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